Packages strive to balance functionality, shelf appeal, and sustainability

Considering the economic climate, it makes sense when Nica Lewis states, "2009 will be all about survival of the fittest in the beauty industry." Lewis is the head consultant of Beauty Innovation at the London office of Mintel, a consumer research, media, and market research firm. In this article, Lewis discusses packaging trends she's observed pertaining to the nutraceutical, cosmeceutical, and beauty markets.

Healthcare Packaging (HCP): In a recent article in another publication, you spoke about reaching a balance between excess packaging and the safety of the content within the packaging. Can you elaborate?
Lewis: I think the big issue when we talk about sustainable packaging is that consumers and manufacturers are doing their best to reduce, reuse, and recycle. They're [looking to] use more eco-friendly materials in packaging and cut out excess packaging. But at the same time, the nature of the cosmetics market is such that some things have to be [printed] on the pack. The pharmaceutical market, with regulations and legislation, also requires information on the pack for safety reasons. So, if we were to take sustainable packaging to the extreme, to the point that you have no outer packaging at all, you could try to cram everything on the [primary package's] label in too fine print. Or, there may not be enough space on the label, and some text would risk being cut. We have to find a balance before we go that far and risk not including certain vital information on that pack.

HCP: Can you provide some examples of products/packages trying to attain that balance?
Lewis: Some cosmetic companies have gotten clever in that instead of including the bottle inside the box [with] a leaflet, they are now taking the text of the leaflet and printing it on the inside of the box. So you dispose of having that extra carton and paper. It's a cost saving, and it satisfies legal requirements. Now whether somebody reads it or not, the company has done the responsible thing and made the consumer information available.

HCP: What kind of packaging trends do you see going on in the beauty and personal care markets?
Lewis: One of the things that we are talking about for the next year is more fun and functional packaging. And so, companies are looking at ways to combine texture, shapes, and design. Linked with that is another trend in which product designs are being influenced by the popularity of MP3 players, iPods, and iPhones. So, you may have cosmetics or skincare products [designed] in the shape of an MP3 player or a mobile phone, with slightly rounded corners, or with very flat and sleek lines. They may be in creamy white colors, sleek black, or Ferrari red. They're shiny metallic--not very eco-friendly--but very high-tech in appearance.

The packaging for Givenchy's Play fragrance looks and feels like an iPhone orBlackberry.

In terms of fun, MAC is the latest brand to team up with Hello Kitty, and TooFaced has licensed a makeup line that features the Smurfettes cartoon icons. These are targeted at adults, not little girls!

HCP: There must be a challenge between developing fun and functional packaging, and balancing it with sustainability issues.
Lewis: Yes. That's the thing with so many trends (finding a balance). Stila is a good example because they used paperboard instead of plastic for the 'Paint Your Pout Red, The Talking Palette' compact. So in theory you could break apart the components when you are finished with the product, and you could recycle the paperboard. Others, like Josie Maran Cosmetics, use biodegradable PLA and recycled aluminum but still achieve a luxe finish.

HCP: What do you see in nutraceutical packaging trends?
Lewis: A really great product and another cool packaging concept is from a French company called Visoanska. It takes a face cream and matching dietary supplements and puts them in the same container. On top is a pump dispenser containing the cream, and below there is a little transparent compartment that you twist to dispense the dietary supplements.

HCP: Tell us more about cosmeceuticals.
Lewis: There is no official definition for them, but loosely speaking, they occupy the space in between cosmetics and pharmaceuticals. There are cosmeceutical brands for haircare, skincare, and makeup. Cosmeceutical skincare brands adopt the look of pharmaceutical packaging--often with black-and-white boxes or pump dispensers-- but add silver accents to reinforce a high-tech and luxury image.

The other thing that we are seeing in terms of dispensing skincare and shampoo is borrowed from baby bottles, i.e., a bag inside a bottle where the bottom of the bottle is eliminated so that you can easily refill it. Another cosmetic packaging option for liquids features twin airless chambers inside a rigid plastic container.

These innovations are not limited just to luxury brands or those in selective distribution. Nivea and Olay both launched premium anti-aging products with cool packaging recently. They are still using jars but they have done appealing things with the colors and decoration on their outer packaging.

HCP: Any final thoughts?
Lewis: I think in 2009 we'll see a trend toward more single-dose packaging. There are a couple of brands already in the U.S. with travel-friendly packaging that you can take in your carry-on luggage. It's the right size for travel and enough for one or two doses. If you are on a business or weekend trip, it's really convenient. We can expect to see more of that in the next year.